Autumn is the season for eating crab. In Jiangsu, eating crab has always followed the rhythms of the season. A popular folk saying goes, "Ninth month for females, tenth month for males"—meaning that the ninth month of the Chinese lunar calendar is ideal for eating female crabs, whose roe is rich and delicate, while the tenth month is best for male crabs, prized for their luscious tomalley.

For many, eating crab in autumn has become a seasonal ritual. Steamed hairy crabs turn a tempting shade of red, their fragrant, savory flesh carrying a hint of sweetness—a delicacy unique to autumn.

Jiangsu's abundant waters nurture hairy crabs with distinct regional flavors.

Yangcheng Lake Hairy Crab: Produced in Yangcheng Lake in Suzhou, Jiangsu, it is a national geographical indication product. Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs have the classic appearance of "green back, white belly, golden claws, yellow hair." Their flesh is firm and sweet, their roe a rich orange-red, and their tomalley creamy and fragrant.

Yangcheng Lake Hairy Crab

Gucheng Lake Hairy Crab: Gucheng Lake is located in Gaochun, Nanjing. With its lush aquatic plants, the lake is recognized as a benchmark for ecological crab farming. The crab meat is fresh-tasting without being overpowering, and the tomalley is rich without being cloying—making these crabs suitable for all ages.

Xinghua Hairy Crab: Xinghua crabs are known for their red, abundant tomalley and thick, plump flesh. Compared with Yangcheng Lake crabs, they are stockier and more robust, with darker bluish-green shells and a solid, full appearance.

Taihu Lake Hairy Crab: Taihu Lake's waters are ecologically diverse and clean, with balanced mineral content, providing ample space for hairy crabs to grow. Exceptionally firm flesh and a high meat yield are the standout features of Taihu crabs.

Hongze Lake Hairy Crab: Hongze Lake hairy crabs are characterized by their large size, thick claws and fragrant meat. Interestingly, the back of the crab bears a marking in the shape of the letter "H"—a natural "geographical mark" of Hongze Lake hairy crabs.

Steamed hairy crabs

How are they traditionally eaten? Steaming is the most traditional method—no complicated sauces, just a little ginger and vinegar at most, to bring out the crab's natural sweetness. Crack open the shell and savor the golden roe first, then enjoy each sweet crab leg, one by one—this is one of autumn's most refined pleasures for the people of Jiangnan.